Automotive Perspectives

Amsoil and Royal Purple. Everything else is just good enough to fry chips.

don't know what the other guy was saying about some other oils that are synthetic but he has no idea and should stick to his day job. By the way you Bozo, the Ecotec V6 is a Buick V6 from 1979 with some some smart marketing twicks on it to sell it as new and improved over the old one.
If you want to see how "good" your oil is i'll tell you what to do. Put some fresh of that "cooking" oil of yours and dyno run the car. Drop the oil and filter and put som Amsoil and a new filter "same brand as the oldone" and dyno run your car again. I can gurantee you that you will see at least 3 to 5 hp more on the rollers just by changing oil.
What else to you want??????
 

And again, the only 'true synthetic' motor oils sold in the US (as of 2011) are Royal Purple, AmsOil, and Red-Line. Every other oil that says 'synthetic' on it is 'synthesized' from the heated vapors at the top of the stack of the crude oil cracking vessel - oh, it's top grade, pure-as-you-can-get oil, but still dinosaur squeezings. The other three mentioned are made in a lab environment by combining chemicals to get the properties desired.
 

Gv is a true full synthetic as well. It's a group iv pao based oil. All mobil1 and other castrol oils are not a true full synthetic.
 

I'd like to see you prove it that castrol is not a true synthetic or Mobile 1 for that matter and I bet you can't!
 

They Both use group III rather than the required 4 to be synthetic in the US
 

mobile 1 is hydrocracker it is not true synthetic





 

SWEPCO is what I use. Not sure if it is synthetic or not - just works for me.
 

All you have to do is look at the MSDS on Mobil 1 is will tell you that it's not a full Synthetic motor oil.
 

To everyone on this page. Mobil 1 is not "HYDROCRACKED" it is a true PAO group IV base stock. Go online and pull a product data sheet that is on file per the US GOVERNMENT!!!!!!! Please do not talk out of your rear, you know what it makes you look like. If you cannot get the product data sheet I will be happy to send you one! Castrol Edge is "HYDROCRACKED" I know because I am an oil distributor of both Mobil and Castrol. What does this mean for the average customer. PAO Group IV base stock is synthetic. It means that all of the molecules in that oil are the same size. Look at it like this. Conventional oil (shell, Pennzoil, GTX, Mobil Super, etc...)imagine a bag of balls, all different sizes, football, soccer ball, tennis ball, golf ball, etc... these are the molecules in conventional oil. That is why you should start your car and give it 20 minutes before you leave. It is hard for an engine to pump that oil up the cylinders to the top of your engine. Now PAO group IV base stock synthetic. Imagine a bag of all golf balls. This is your synthetic. It takes less effort to pump it through the cylinders to the top of your engine. That is why you can start your car and drive it after 5 minutes or less. Get the picture? Not only that a PAO group IV base stock synthetic will also make your engine run cooler. That gives you less wear on your engine, less sludge, better gas mileage. That is also what allows you to run more miles between oil changes. It saves you money all around.
 

I remember when Mobil 1 first came out. It smelled like coconuts, what's up with that? I had a friend that toasted a camshaft while using it, and swore never to use it again. And, I recently had 1999 Saab 9-3 with about 250,000 miles on it. It had 49,000 when I bought it. I did a head gasket at about 150,000, and took a picture of the cylinder walls. You wouldn't believe the cross hatch still in there! and, no ridge, just like it rolled off the factory line. I used 100% synthetic amsoil, from the day I purchased the car. I think it was the European formula. Great oil. That's not the only car I used it in. I have been using it for years!
 

Bought the wife a new Honda CRV in 2014, changed the oil after the first 5000 miles and it still looked liked the day it was new. Used Mobile 1 15,000 mile full synthetic oil and after just 1000 miles it was turning brown and it smelled like conventional oil. Still use the Mobile 1, it's better than the conventional for a few dollars more but it's changed every 3000. Would like to find out what Honda used as a fill oil.
 

Hi.. I am an Engineer at GM.. Only Formability Engineer. I know a little about everything BUT and expert at Nothing... I read everyone's comment and also did some other research webbing and conversing with the Engine Engineers. I LOVE Angle's comments.. He breaks it down to simple math and convincing visuals. I was impressed with what the Engine Engineers here at GM about the Mobile 1 Full Syn and some said Royal Purple is good to.. But all other oils will not give you the protection that they will.. One other thing is to MAINTAIN YOUR OIL CHANGES and Filter changes... Actually GM, Chrysler and Ford Use Moblile 1 full syn in all there High Performance engines.. In my Life One + One = Two.... Period.!!! I don't believe in hocus pocus or bible thumping theories... Sooooooooooo after saying all that... If I have a new engine and whether theirs performance or Not.... I will Use Mobile 1 Full Syn... or Royal Purple.
Thank you everyone for all the Great Info that you have shared for me to be More smarter...lol
 

To clear up confusion on whether or not Mobil 1 is a true PAO synthetic: There are several different "flavors" of Mobil 1. The "Mobile 1 Extended Performance" is a true PAO class IV synthetic. The standard Mobil 1 is not. There may be other variations, such as the racing versions that are also class IV, but per the AMSOIL website : http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ the Extended Performance brand of Mobile 1 is the only non-petroleum based, true PAO. class IV synthetic sold by a major oil company in the US. Caveat, this article was from 2012.
 

I agree with you on motor oil. However if u believe 1+1=2 you would be right in believing a bible thumping theory and not in the theory of evolution. Lol
 

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WELL DOGGIES, AS UNCLE JED SAID .... I DO BELIEVE WE HAVE DUN OVERLOOKED A FEW POINTS , THERE GRANNY !!!
.
EXXON-MOBIL IS A MASS MARKET MULTINATIONAL THAT IS BOTTOM LINE DRIVEN AND NOT REALLY INTERESTED IN YOU GUY S OLD JUNK BOX ROLLIN' STOCK .

AFTER THE COURT CASE , IT BECAME NO LONGER NECESSARY FOR E-M TO CONTINUE MAKING REAL SYNTHETIC .

IT'S LIKE WHAT YOU CALL A "CORPORATE DECISION" DUDES !!!

MOBIL IS eS H I T BUT IT'S LEGAL TO CALL IT GOLD !!!
 

Fully synthetic oils are chemically engineered. Finished product requires no additives and has consistent uniform molecules. Mobil1 and Castrol make this, but 95 percent of what you see on the shelf is highly refined conventional oil with additives. Even AmsOil's OE and XL brands aren't full synthetic. Just because it has a name on the bottle doesn't mean everything with that name is the same.
 

I purchased a Toyota Tundra in November, 1999. As of August 22, 2016, there are 256,000+ miles on the engine. I change oil between 3,000 and 7,000 miles. I really dogged it for the first 85,000 miles, since then, I have been driving it with more sense. When I first purchased it, I changed the bulk oil to Castrol, after a few thousand to Castrol Edge. After almost 17 years of the best and longest service I have ever received from any vehicle I have owned, it still doesn't use any oil between changes and the oil still look and feel good, I believe it has more power than when I first purchased it. I said all of that to say this; I was using Castrol before I knew about edge, but as soon as I knew about it I started using it, My message; It doesn't matter what anyone has to say about Castrol Edge, my experience is, it has exceeded my expectations,and I'll continue using it until I'm convinced otherwise. And that will be a big job. I really enjoyed reading all of the comments from the professionals??????????

 

Dirty oil is dirty oil... 5000 miles Max between oil changes. Rocket scientist
 

Dirty oil is dirty oil... 5000 miles Max between oil changes. Rocket scientist
 

Hey all this talk about Mobile one acid Castrol doesn't mean anything. I've been running 75-90 gear oil in my engines for 35 years and never had an engine failure. My 02 Harley runs as good as it did on day one when I took it home and drained the crap they put in it at the factory then filled it with the gear oil. I only change it every 10,000 miles and with 178,000 showing on her she still runs great. Even the cam tensioners that everyone complain about are still in new condition. Forget all the crap you read on the internet about which oil is better and just fill your ride with any brand of 75-90 gear oil. It will be the best thing you ever do and you'll run it in everything you have for life once you see what it does for you. (Retired Aircraft Mechanic)
 

I know what you're talking about I run gear oil in my 2013 Challenger and it's great. Engine runs so much smoother and quieter it seems like a completely different motor. I ran gear oil in my Corvette for years and never had one dam thing go wrong in it. I did have a little trouble finding a place that would put it in the engine for me but other than that I love it. Geek
 

Are you aware gear oils are not rated the same as motor oils. Running 75w-90 gear oil is equivalent to 30 weight motor oil. It has pressure modifiers and is designed to protect gears and also has no detergent. Great for gears, but is very poor as a motor oil.
 

Although I have no doubt that a true PAO oil is theoretically superior, my personal experience is that most "real world" driving is more than adequately served by a lesser oil. Also, in looking at oil data online, I see that there is substantial overlap in oil properties. That is, some conventional oils perform similarly in certain key parameters to some highly regarded Group III based synthetics (that cost more). And, some Group III based oils perform nearly as well as Group IV oils. I have a 2003 Acura CL Type S (the rare 6 speed manual!) that I bought new. It now has 326,000 miles on it, and still runs beautifully. I'm cheap, so I have used Chevron Supreme conventional 10W-30 that I bought by the case at Costco. It was $.89 per quart for years. This isn't even the correct oil for this car (should be 5W-20), but Costco doesn't carry that. I changed the oil 3K-5k miles. So....what exactly would PAO oil have done for me? By the way, when I look into the oil fill hole, I see a spotless cylinder head. How long do you want your engine to last? I'm sure I could go 400,000 from the look of things. At some point a car just becomes obsolete. In case you might think this car is a one-off, I used the exact same discipline on two other Hondas with the same result ('86 Accord 337,000 miles, then sold; '98 Civic 260,000 miles, then totaled). I see endless debates on car forums about every automotive functional fluid. It seems so pointless to me. And, I'm sure that most of these people, after agonizing about which oil to use, keep the car for far fewer miles than I did. It's all about keeping up on maintenance.
 

Did u seriously say that is why you need to wait 20 minutes to warm up yoyr car. That is tru if it were 1985 and fuel injection was not in your car... now it is actually harmful to excessive idle even in cold weather!!!! 30 seconds is the most u need then drive easy under 2500rpm until oil is warmer. It heats up much faster avoiding sitting idle with cold oil for 10 minutes having the fuel injectors wash oil off the cylinder walls as yhe ecu tries to keep idle. Vs driving and building oil pressure. This is especially true with mobile one as it is one of the best cold start oils period. Excessive idling is not good for your car soo... it is hard to belive the other shart u spewed! By the way u are correct mobile one forms the molecules in the same shapes to help pumpability and flow... this does not mean it is a true synthetic level 4 or not... look up the work synthetic it means man made. If it is refined from crude no mattet how incredible the level if refining it is not synthetic... Duhhhh!!!
 

Mobile 1 extended is 15k with a good filter that is highway even at that 6-8k is pretty standard and 5k for city. Changing every 3k is obsurdly wasteful.... conventional oil reccomends changes every 3k so why do u stick to that for synthetic!?! I can see changing at 5-8k but 3k just buy conventional!? Unless u only put on 3k a year in that case i guess i could see
 

Schaeffer's oil. That is all.
 

has any one look in to ... Schaeffer's full syn. motor oil ?
 

nice blog
 

Amsoil is one of just a few "true" 100% (no crude oil base) synthetic motor oils. Motul is another one and I use Motul 710 in my 1964 2 stroke Lambretta and 79 Vespa small frame. It runs about $18-$20.00 a QT, but it's worth it to me for the benefits. I've been doing a lot of research on this Amsoil company at the moment and i'm very impressed with the lab testing, data and real world application results I have seen so far. I drive high miles with my work commute every day and I normally use Mobil 1 on all my vehicles, but after everything I have learned about Amsoil and the real synthetic truth I have learned along with the science that backs it up, I've decided to switch and give 100% (true) synthetic oil a shot. I always thought full synthetic meant "all man made," but it doesn't. Everyone has there own experiences with what they use and if it works great, more power to you. The fact alone that Amsoil is 100% true synthetic oil and "man made" here in the USA and not an actual fossil fuel, is better in my book alone. The performance of 100% synthetic speaks for itself if you choose to do the research. Amsoil did create the first true synthetic motor oil in the 70's, but i'm not on here to promote them, I could care less. If there is another 100% "true" synthetic motor oil, (NOT FROM CRUDE OIL) I would gladly try that as well and compare. - Peace
 

Pennzoil makes a 100% synthetic motor oil (not "full" synthetic which in not all synthetic base).

 

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It's funny to read what you are all saying, from what I'm reading here, it seems that some are stuck on what they're daddy told them and others have done some research. Mobile 1 does have a true synthetic, although very hard to find, Castrol Euro is required in BMW,VW,AUDI,PORSCHE,MERCEDES and so on in order for the warranty to not be void. Royal Purp, AmsOil and Red Line are also made of group iv base. I don't know why I clicked this link. All I have to say is, B4 you hit publish open a new window and do some reading. Good websites are the oil companies who make the oil, oil test laboratories websites, AgcoAutomotive.com... Sad thing is, is that each and every post in here has some truth on the positive side of the post but as soon asyou go negative, you set it in people's subconscious and that's who bigfoot came to be. Anyway all five oils in this thread are full group iv base stock with the exception of Mobile 1 which does have a hard to find true synthetic. Anyway take it for what you will and if you say something negative about my post, all I ask is that you have proof to backup your claim, I have you mine. Thank you for reading.
 

I forgot to add that Castrol Eruo MADE IN BELGIUM only is a truly full Synthetic not Castrols that say made in the USA which is sad. I dislike all the deceiving words that these companies use, I guess that's what we get in return for freedom of speech but only if you word it right, in other words deception of speech.
 

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Hi, the author raised a very good point. Generally, it is difficult to choose the best Synthetic Oil., but in my view choosing the best oil will make our engine and body parts run effectively. I thank the author for sharing this idea.
 

In the crazy United States only, the terms "Full Synthetic", "100% Synthetic" and "Synthetic" have no meaning because of the court case Mobil vs Castrol".That's when any oil that was "molecularly-modified" (hydrocracked) using Dino oil or Natural Gas can be called Any of the above terms, which in the U.S. mean nothing. After the decision, almost all the oil companies went to the lowest common denominator and dropped their real synthetic base (PAO or Polyol Ester). Except for REDLINE, Royal Purple and AMSOIL Signature. I don't believe Mobil 1 EP is Group 4. If it is, it has to be priced up there with Group 4 oils. If an oil is branded/made in Germany or Japan, and uses the word "Synthetic" on the label, it must by law be a Group 4. Schaffers and Motul are good examples. Not cheap.I personally use a Group 3 but I have 3 Priuses. But if I raced, towed or had a turbo, I would want the high-temp protection of a Group 4 oil. It makes a difference in turbo bearings and prevents coking in the top piston ring land.
 

I think that Mobil 1 Extended Performance is now a Group 3. Many have commented that Mobil 1 has won more races that any oil. I don't think that the oil used in racing at a high level (Formula 1, Indy 500,etc) is consumer-grade oil. It is instead a high ester blend with no detergents and lacks anything that contributes to long-life. Like the oil used in dragsters, it's dumped after every race.So more lubricant and less life. That's a true "racing oil".And it's not "Extended Performance" and probably closer to a Group 5 if not actually a Group 5 which is jet engine syn oil. And it's probably a single weight oil made to operate a very narrow range of temperature so no VI improvers. Just "More oil!"
 

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Almost all of this is old information. All the U.S. made oils labeled "Full Synthetic" "100% Synthetic" and "Synthetic" are just Group 3. There is no legal meaning to the word "Synthetic" in the U.S. . If an oil is from Germany or Japan, and has the word "Synthetic", it must by law be at least a Group 4.Some oils like Motul and Liqui-Moly are actually blends of Group 4 (PAO) and Group 5 (Ester). In the U.S. we have true Group 4 oils and they have Group 5 mixed in. These are Redline, Royal Purple and AMSOIL Signature.THese are actually better than the Synthetic Oils (Just PAO) from 1972 to 1997 when Castrol destroyed the definition of Synthetic Oil.To you Mobil One fanboys, only the Extended Mobil One has a touch of PAO. But not enough to be in the Big Leagues. Once Castrol could get any hydrocracked Dino oil to be called "Synthetic", every oil maker in the U.S. except the 3 above downgraded to Group 3. The most overpriced Group 3 is Castrol Edge and Pennzoil Platinum. You might as well use Walmart Super-Syn,Kirkland Syn at Costco, MAG 1 or Amazon Basic. All made by Warren and all rated SN+. Don't overpay for Group 3. Use Group 4 if you race, tow, or have a turbo.Otherwise, Group 3 is fine. Just don't go over 5k.
 

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#1, Castrol and Mobile never went to court, complaint was filed with some kind of comission that supposed to prevent mis-naming the products, again - there was NO law suite, rather arbitration by pretty much private entity.
#2, not a single sythetic base i.e. PAO, ESTER, GTL can be used in 100%+additives due to major flaws in each one and must be enhaced - blended by other sythetic or by group 1/2/3.
But base groups 1 or 2 or 3 + additive package can be used as stand alone motor oil.
So far I see that only RedLine and AMSOil are 2 manufacturers that make group 4 and 5 blended oils, they are may be not only 2, but clearly it is a mainline for them and they are not involved in any dirty games of calling base 3 hydrockracked oil with may be some addition of PAO and/or ESTER a full synthetic, like all mainstreamers such as castrol, mobile and so on.
I have ordered AMSOoil Signature 5w20 for my LR 5.0 SC and European Formula 5w40 FS for my Audi TT 2.0T
Will see how it goes.
 

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As long as the oil pressure is greater than the hydrogen gas pressure, a seal will be formed confining the gas. For synthetic oil price
you should be updated

 

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You need to do your research on oils Ams oil and Royal purple do not own a oil refining company therefore they have to buy from all of the major oil companies to put their additives in there This is basic information that can be found on the Internet
 

My post is too old. There are 4 "real" synthetics left after the all the manufacturers learned they could market their Group 3 oils as "Synthetic" and very few people could figure it out. The synthetic bases left out are PolyolEster (Ester)(POE) and PolyAlphaOlephin (PAO). Most real synthetics have about a 50-50 mixture of both. We call these API Group 4/5. The oil brands are Royal Purple, AMSOIL Signature, REDLINE and Joe Gibbs but Gibbs oils is made by one of these 3 first companies. In Germany and Japan, if the container is labeled "Synthetic", It must be at least Group 4. But not in the USA. We have this little conspiracy going here. In Germany, you have two excellent real syns: Motul and Liqui-Moly. Rumor has it that the German oils have more Ester than ours.Ester is Group 5. An almost 100% Ester-based oil is Jet Engine Oil (about $30 a quart on Amazon). Jet engines are only air coolled and the bearing get really hot. Group 5 has very high flash point, so it's also great for turbo bearings.
 

If we were close id bet u 1000 dallors ul never get 3% hp loss n 250hp with amsoil..and ive used amsoil only for better 5yrs
 

Thankyou this blog helps me alot.Waiting for your next blog.We have best Car lubricants
 

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If it says 100% synthetic by law it cannot contain any refined petroleum "mineral oil" it must be made from group 4 PAO and or Group 5 esters. Period! Since the court case all Mobil 1 full synthetics are only legally required to contain a minimum of 25% synthetic components. So if you think a dino oil corporation isn't going to go after their bottom line profit you lose.
 

Lmao mobil one fanboys lmao such a eloquent bitch slapping lmao

 

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First thing is the ability to extend your drian intervals to 15,000 for severe driving and 25,000 for non severe driving.

That's what Amsoil say's and I have been doing that for years with no issues at all with my vehicles engines.

Those extended drian intervals mean less money spent on oil changes.

Also a PAO Group IV Motor Oil is Man Made which means no crude oil is used to make the product.

That alone is environmentally better.

Also your vehicles engine has the potential to last 1 million miles or more if it uses a well designed Group IV Motor Oil, provided the oil changes are done on time and a super high quality, synthetic oil filter is used.

But..

It also depends on the engine design too because some were poorly designed by engineers who either don't know what they are doing or else they purposely design engines with a low life span in an effort to increase the companies bottom line.

Hope this helps.
 

No they do NOT. I have never seen or heard of any Pennzoil Motor oil being 100% Synthetic.

Highly refined, hydrocracked oil yes but NOT 100% Synthetic.